stair skirt board outside

The entire skirt is custom cut the first time to whatever condition you have. In that technique you have a great deal more labor as you’re typically installing 30 individual pieces one at a time and scribing each piece to get a good fit. set it so i am taking at least a half inch .scribe nosing, the risers and the tread. The kind words and endorsements from many men I’ve been reading for years are humbling. Always fear failure. I appreciate the elegant simplicity and common sense involved in your method and I will use it on my next project that requires it. The scribing does effectively deal with the vatiances in heights,plumb, level, etc. With stain-grade, I recommend always using a practice piece first, then you have a fail proof template. 2) I can’t seem to find info on the finishing. DIY Stair Trim – My stairs look 100% better with this “faux” stair skirt board added, since adding traditional trim wasn’t an option. It’s critical that the workmanship is of the highest caliber. Thanks! I have the first of 4 skirt boards nearly done. It’s the premier Model airplane show in the world. Great website and very helpful articles – keep’im comin’ Thanks Tim. They learned the business from their father who was a tradesman. Seems like I would have to reposition the scribe point for each level. Random thoughts: Norm, large, flat cardboard is hard to come by unless you buy a lot of refrigerators haha. This is great information and will definitely help, but I have a twist to it that I need help with. That’s perfect ! Most often in existing homes removing the whole flight isn’t an option. Thanks for the info. Amazing how much impact one man who is devoted to teaching can have. (400 per stair case). One of the primary advantages to scribing over top of the treads/risers is that you are not staring into the joints when you climb the stairs. Happy scribing! I put the skirt board in place, then used a 3/4 stick as a spacer, and scribed from that. And always acclimate. 48 in. Or use a partial template that covers everything but the last stair or two and measure and layout the last two stairs without scribing them. Thanks Norm! Westfire is proud to sell and distribute these beautiful hardwood products as a way of supporting the Amish community. Thank you so much and god bless you! What kind of wood do you recommend? That would allow the uncut skirt board to project though the door opening. Suppose you’re going to scribe the stile of a bookcase to a stone wall. By that I mean, rip down some cardboard to 11&1/4″ and make a trial run. They did everything from the footings to the roof, excluding the utilities. A couple thoughts. It could run the whole length of the skirt and miter down to the floor to cover the intersection of the two skirts and the newel posts. You’d have to build out the 1/4″ plywood 1/2″ at the wall on the treads and risers and the rake line of the skirt. I’m going to be attempting this task on my townhouse stairs soon (which include a ‘switchback’) — I’ll be sure to do some practice runs with a bunch of old mdf I’ve got lying around (thank goodness), but could you clarify something for me? Precutting as i mentioned is really only an advantage on short runs. For enjoyment, Norm works on his home, does smaller construction jobs, serves in his local church, reads, and works on the homes of his three daughters. The width of the skirt depends upon the height of your risers and the width of the tread. Re: sharing; just read that some high-powered scientists are starting to use public/free sharing sites to publish their results. The moulding on top will give it a nice finished look as well. Submitted by Ana White on Mon, 09/23/2013 - 10:09. You start over again with the material that didn’t cost anything but time to begin with. The unit rise was not determined by equally dividing the TOTAL RISE from FINISH FLOOR to FINISH FLOOR. For me I see little benefit in measuring when you don’t have to and cutting twice when it’s not necessary. Therefore, can I use 1/4″ oak ply to cover the skirt using your method? Looking at your 2nd picture at the landing you have the perfect situation to finish it nicely. I believe you’ll find it more durable over the long haul. I found I had to use the depth of the tread in order to get the scribed lines for the riser and tread to intersect properly at the base of the triangular cut-out. Most of the time you could see in their eyes that they got the principle. (the picture is a bit on an angle – sorry about that). I guess if they were “minor” enough they could be sanded out and would be a good trade off for the improved accuracy. My standard reply is ” just follow the instructions step by step and see what results you get”. My next tool purchase is a coping foot ! Honestly I am not sure exactly how that curve will affect the skirt board but I know that it will. An additional thought would be to scribe a cardboard or Luan template for the top section of the skirt where it butts the door trim and then overlay it on the section of skirt you can scribe. I’m sure you can do it. Norm, This line acts as a registration control. Norm, I still remember the sign over the carpentry shop at Williamson. When I went on my own in the early 80’s we did many basement renovations where we had to make the existing stairs look good. Again, it’s important to hold the scriber level as you work your way up the flight. Lots of Information to help you with the design of your new staircase. That makes it very easy and simple. Regarding where to end the skirt at the landing my 1st preference would be to install the skirt so it continues to rise above the nosing until it reaches the height of the baseboard. Hopefully someone with more experience/know how will comment and teach us both a better way. It’s the same principle. I was considering temporarily mounting some small lengths of 2×6 on the wall that the uncut skirt board can be attached. The ceiling was all T&G. I’d have used large dividers, but the bored stick and pins yield more consistent and accurate results. The skill level will come with practice. Usually 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 in. If it goes well for you you could remove the skirts, install treads and risers and rescribe the skirts. That leaves only the radius portion of the nosing to deal with. Just set your oak scriber sticks slightly more that the highest riser and slightly longer that the longest tread. Now, I just have to figure out how to do the same thing on the underside of the steps so that the two sides compliment each other. Todd would love it. In my defense, I am an engineer, by trade, and an amateur wood worker by requirement (honey-do). I am attempting this (out of $ necessity) on my townhouse and from terror in ignorance I have, having read this article, come round to cautious confidence in the procedure (if still somewhat shaky on the skill level). Do I create my scribe to match the 11 3/8th’s or the 10 1/4? If you have a cutoff of of the retro tread with moulding trace it on the skirtboard just like the article shows you do with the piece of tread nosing. Your well written article is a real help. It does seem counterintuitive that it will fit in your situation, but it will!. We went back and forth a few times and his spirit was one of wanting to get it perfect. Thought you were finished huh :) ? David, Several options. There are better and more efficient ways to build stairs. And yes, it's a pretty skirt. You must set the depth of your scriber for the furtherst distance that has to be removed so that the entire board will fit. Make sure your skirtboard has a straight top edge. I’m sue there’s other options as well. The shoe was nailed to the floor and not the base. The rnli guys go out in ANY weather and are not paid a penny. So I followed your directions and after scribing the treads and having marked the angle of the board for realignment and then cutting off the bottom tread mark (which is actually the floor) and aligning the board back on the wall the two top tread scribe marks didn’t line up. I have done it the same way, but with a Multimaster (or a japanese trim saw), I cut off the end of each nosing using a scrap of skirt board (with 1/16 ripped off it for the blade width) against the drywall and slid the skirt board in from the front. Thank you so much! Great job! Paul, The instructor then asked the skeptic if he was willing to risk his $20 bill. I used some popsicle sticks and super glue to make a template. Norm, You have to put some pressure down on the saw that’s not necessary with an up cut blade. Typically, within a week, a great looking set of finished stairs would arrive on the job. I went down to Lee Valley and bought a $99 scriber (I love toys). I’ve never had to do this but it just got added into a job we’re doing in 2 weeks! Re:“…close to your chest” to me implies a good poker hand selfishly kept secret. 1st class. Kreg, It’s the 8th house he’s built and lived in, not including the 3 renovations before the first house. I would look on the under side of the stairs to see if there’s any evidence of movement there. I’d love to see a picture of your project. It’s not as difficult to fit a soft material to a hard surface as vice versa. Do I just end my skirt at the top of my last riser and not go to the landing with the skirt? This is the kind of thing that makes me excited to be a carpenter again. You can even scribe them for cupped or bowed treads, and make little ‘notes to self’ right on the template. If you try the scribing method I believe you’d find it to be fast and efficient. What I’d do is give it a try with a several step length of 1/4″ plywood and see how it fits. What you’re doing is making a template that you could “fiddle with” until it’s perfect and once achieved take it and transfer the profile to the finished skirt board. Thank you for the shooting board suggestion. Awesome tip on skirt boards. I would love to have a conversation with via phone or e-mail. I’d take a second volunteer and ask him to also find the center of the room. whether it’s a wall or another piece of material like brick, stone or whatever. When you set your countertop on the base cabinets you line up the front edge parallel with the face of the base cabinet top rails, push the top against the wall and set your scriber distance to the furtherest distance that the top will have to reach in order that the entire length of the top will fit after you’ve cut it. Rip down the 1/8″ MDF or plywood into 1.5″wide strips. I hope this helps. The last few I’ve done I used my Bosch jigsaw with a reversed tooth blade that cuts on the downstroke. Thank you for the quick reply; you’ve saved me some time with your response. In Pa. they were the norm. It is my first time doing skirting. L.J. I’m sorry to hear he passed away – RIP Don. It works great on one dimensional cuts. Thanks. That was one of the short speeches I always gave to the tradesmen that would show up on my jobs. Thanks Norm ! I followed the instructions, but when it came time to wedge the skirt in, the bottom few stairs were a tight fit, but the gap in the rise and run increased as I got to the top, where it was easily 1/8″, if not more?! Thanks and very good article ! If you didn’t and set it for anything less when you cut the scribe line the board would not “reach” into the deepest depressions of the stone wall but be stopped by that fartherest point. If you decide to tackle the project I’ll walk you through it. I’ve been doing this a long time and I have yet to have a coping saw “get away from me” If the need arises to replace the carpet you will be relegated to replacing with carpet that’s as thick, or thicker than what you have now. I would really like to learn more about the technique of routing in treads and risers. Routing the treads and risers into the stringer, glueing and shimming in place is, in my opinion, a better option. In 1999 he started working part-time as a construction inspector, and full-time as a commercial superintendent for a contractor building churches, retail spaces, multi-family dwellings, and schools. I planned to use a Flex flat board for the curved sections. Sorry it’s taken me so long to respond. While I see the necessity and inevitability of change I think the “specialization” we see in the trades today minmizes the opportunity for learning the trade. I look forward to hearing how you do on your first skirt scribing job. This avoids the time consuming round cuts which is where your greatest chance for error lies. Brilliant article. Note I ended up cutting kerfs into the board to allow it to bend, I did this instead of buying Flex Wood which was priced at $24 a foot (ouch). The treads will not shrink enough in the length direction to make a difference. Lumber was expensive, cardboard was cheap. Thank you Norm. Timing of that is problematic because we seldom get to choose our last day on earth, but it’s still my goal and I try to work toward it each day. A good razor saw & a scrap piece of wood to save you a lot of time. I may clear up some of the confusion. I echo the comments above about the excellence of the article and the graphics. Thank you for the kind words. Michaela, This makes a huge difference with the builders that we work for, as they continue to entrust us with more of their trim and mill work allowing us to stay busy all year. Stair sizes are not always the same. Do you have an opinion which way is better? Thank you. I ended up using the method you described above and scribed onto poster board. Thank you! Our Amish stair parts are 100% authentic “true Amish-made.” As a cornerstone of sustainability, Amish-made means exactly that. Evan. I’ve met many along the way who’s spirit was “I learned it the hard way and that’s the way the next guys going to learn it” We can be thankful for men such as Gary and the numbers of JLC contributers and posters who are willing, proficient and anxious to help the next man. This affects the positioning of the board when I cut off the bottom and slide it down. Freddy, I need to miter the very top for the outside turn. Chances are if you tack the skirt where it passes they pass the protrusions you’ll have reasonably good results. Theory alone is more efficient than experiential trial and error. Keep on keepen on! Members of the Amish community handcraft every stair part and accessory in our collection. Two minor thoughts. Due to the poor job of building in the first place and the slight variation in thickness of the mortar under the tiles, each step is different, none are level or plumb. You’re done! Not sure I am visualizing it correctly. One advantage that I’ve found in scribing the skirt over the treads and risers is that the joint between the skirt and the finish stairs is not staring you in the face as you walk up the steps. Years ago I only cut skirts with a sharp 10 pt. The drywallers and finish carpenters were much happier with the work process and the end result. Local Hero, Use a temporary riser with a 45-degree angle cut on the end as a guide. Sharon, Sharon, The top & bottom newels should be located so that the handrail dies into the center of them with the ballusters plumb and the bottom o/s edge of the baluster in line with the i/s edge of the bullnose return. (same problem on the bottom if you are doing an inside corner with pie shaped stairs). At the top of the stairs I have cut the skirting to allow the baseboards to continue down the stair skirt. Thanks again, you are a rock star, appreciate you taking the time to provide input to my project. Chris, Better safe than sorry. Whatever works! Hope this is a help. It’s a little fancier baseboard than I’m used to seeing in SC with a nicer profile than most of the base in new homes here. The process you described is how I see it done in SC on most houses. Rough strings in place risers put on all first.Then Finish skirt is notched or scribed to risers only both sides you can shim riser to skirt from behind if needed .Treads butted to finish string both sides using a stair jig to get length and shape of tread. Finish nail the skirt to the wall again, leaving the nails proud for easy removal. Everyone wins. Mark, That was quite a heritage for a young man like me who had no background building whatsoever to be exposed to. In your case where your skirt intersects with the flat lower portion of your baseboard that’s where you make a vertical cut on your skirt. That’s the purpose of the magazine! Ecommerce Software by Volusion, Palermo Collection (36/44") & Knee Wall Collection (30"), Crown Heritage Moldings, Brackets & Rosettes. If I were in your situation and this is a one time event rather than learning how to scribe skirt boards I’d probably install the skirt first and then butt the treads to it. Norm. Best wishes. Regards Jim Sear UK. A skirt board will add a lot to your stairs. In the big box stores like Menards, they have 14′ “skirtboard”, but it’s pretty thin and flimsy and not sure it’s going to give me the “wood” finish I would like. When scribing a skirt board with the method in the article it doesn’t matter if the heights and depths (rise and run) vary. Although I spend most of my time running jobs, and hadn’t built a finish set of steps in years, I believe I would have kept my $20 on all six sets. Thanks to this website and Norm Yeager I set to the task in an “efficient and workman-like manner,” with zero head scratching, no wasted material, and was done in less than half the time my boss had budgeted. This line … I hope this helps. Benjamin, The nosings are challenging. The base went on the wall and could be any height the builder/owner wanted. A recent addition to my collection of “old saws”seems apt. I also pre-drill each section of the skirt where it fits against the tread, close to the riser, and install a 4d finish nail. Otherwise the piece you’re scribing and the surface you are scribing to won’t touch along the entire length. Or at least I do! Really appreciate your input throughout the project. A stair skirt or baseboard is the trim that runs along the bottom of the wall beside the steps. Jay, The idea of cutting off the end of the nosing would solve that, but the hard and brittle bamboo will not doubt splinter visibly, thereby negating the best advantage of the “skirts on last” method of hiding the end cuts. You can do it, it will work. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you Charles, I’d make a template out of cardboard with the longest pice I could get that met the door at the top. Unless you remove the treads and risers, install the skirts and then reinstall the treads and risers your method isn’t viable. Ha, i am a week too late reading this article! A skirt board is installed to the finished wall (sheet rock, paneling, etc.) I moved to South Carolina fourteen years ago from Pennsylvania. TIC really is the best magazine out there! I’ve got a two tread step to do next week on a painting job, and was going to just 45° the skirt along the risers and tread, as previously it didn’t have anything. I’ve often scribed a larger skirt and after everything fits right then rip the top edge off to maintain the clearance I want over the tread nosing. Because the carpet is so tight, if you ever decide to remove it and install overlay treads and risers you could butt them into the skirt board and they would probably fit just fine. What would look good in my opinion would be a piece of base cap moulding like on the top of your baseboard that can be seen behind the stairs on left. James, Thank You, I’m not sure. 3. Norm, Maybe a larger picture will give us a better clue as to what has caused what we see in your picture. Your method for hiding any connection gap makes more sense to me, I’ll certainly try it the next time. Have you ever been to Woodruff? If you know only two things in carpentry level and plumb all else will go smoothly.. Great article! You can include an image in your comment by uploading it below. You can set the saw to a beveled 45 degree angle to turn the 90 degree corner. I’ll keep practicing ;) :] Long story short, it came out beautifully, and the scribing techniques worked exactly as you described. Norm, (I’m attaching pics of the stairs that I’m remodeling. It was the suggestion to start with the tallest or biggest stair that messed me up. They are manufactured by one of the undisputed leaders in the stair parts manufacturing business. I’m gonna try this in a few weeks myself and saved this to use. When I was running jobs I always told the tradesmen I was working with there’s three ways to do things. Stair rail is installed at 32” to 36” in height on the stairs. What size should a skirt board be? the far right side of the skirt board, find 7" on the inside of the square, and put the 7" mark at the right side top corner of the skirt. It still amazes ne that we can learn from one another almost instantaneously, although separated by borders and 1000’s of miles. What a beautiful job ! Johnny, Pre-built stairs were set up on stage with the treads and risers butting against the drywall on the closed side. Finish up by adding the base, base cap, and cove moldings. Congratulations on a job well done. Scribing the skirts are most useful on renovations and remodels. From my reccollection the current Toll Bros, Bruce and Robert are an attorney and an accountant respectively. It took care of any irregularities of the wall that a 1x couldn’t follow. For now, we are simply relieved that the stairs can be finished the way we had planned. Maybe I cannot scribe it after all and will just have to measure and layout everything after all. After Williamson I went to work for a production homebuilder and prefabbed stairs were what we used for the main stairs with site built stairs to the many basements which were the standard in the SE Pa. area in the 70’s and 80’s. No room to slide the board up or down when switching from scribing the run to scribing the rise. I don’t recall a problem with any of them. For readers having a difficult time visualizing the scribe I’ve attached an image below. In a recent remodel, Forrest McCanless, had to put in a skirtboard the hard way—with the treads and risers already in place. I would cut the skirt with a handsaw or saber saw along the scribed line until I came to the start of the nosing’s radius. I’m concerned that it will be to difficult to cut for the nosing out of the skirt. That allows enough flex in the skirt to slide it into place and also enough material above the nosing to wrap carpet (if the stairs are carpeted) around the tread. When you combine the right theory plus the experience you get the most efficiency. so no education is free :D, Ok time moves on…. I think 1×12 x16′ would work for your job but not positive. Maybe if I were to get a job requiring a scribed skirt of stain grade material I’d think carefully aboout doing templating it. Typically 3/4” material such as 1×10 or 1×12. Good work. At least the nosing that overhangs the riser. It would be a great sense of pride if you did it yourself. (or you could just lay a 4′ level on the nosings, mark your line on the top of it and measure from that line). I couldn’t figure out what I did wrong, so on the next several pieces I was really careful about my scribing. My 1st comment/question on TIC. I’d be interested to know how you or Josh do on your foirst skirtboard scribe job. There’s right, there’s wrong and there’s different. Thanks for the kind words. Norm, Sorry I missed replying to you until now. The base cap should transition from the existing baseboard at the top of the stairs to the base cap on top of the skirtboard. 3/8″ – 10 1/16″ to 9 5/8″ approx. Do treads expand at the ends? My next project is the staircase which is currently carpeted, and will soon receive hardwood. Gets me close and sometimes real close then all i have to do is use a standard scriber . Read our comment policy for more information. It works. Now, take the skirt board off the wall, cut the bottom scribe mark, and slide the skirt board down the wall until it rests on the floor. I’m excited to think of what the future will bring for you and TiC. I would rip the top profile off some base and use that as the trim on the top of the skirt ending it just short of the corner of the wall so you had some of the wall color wrap around the corner and end at the return on the skirt trim. Hope this helps. My guess is your probably finished. I presume you’re using kiln dried material . Some of the brads would run out and off the skirt, but the others would come in behind and finish up the markings. Took me about five years to work up the nerve to give it a go, including a couple of false starts and, of course, talking my brother into helping me wield the 14-foot piece of poplar. I am working on my first skirt board retro-fit and found this and thought it was a life saver. You lay your board on the tread nosings and tack it in place. The graphics make it so easy for anyone to follow. Can you offer any special suggestions for getting these butts to line up? In the article I describe the process and the reason I prefer it to your method. For interior use only, our pine tread features a clean, uniform look that is clear of most knots and imperfections commonly found in solid pine treads. Can you help? That would be my 1st thought. You can try it with cardboard strips from a refrigerator box first. Subsequently I “think” I now know what is wrong, but I haven’t had a chance to prove it to myself. How could it possibly match the stair when you go to slide it into place? In a recent remodel, Forrest McCanless, had to put in a skirtboard the hard way—with the treads and risers already in place. The skirt is basically a piece of trim used to cover the structural section of the stairs. If you could post a picture regarding your second question I can respond better. I’ve though about this from time to time….thanks for finally shedding light on it for me. How and what type of tool do I need to use to cut the nice round bullnose on the skirt board? When you scribe you can use a pencil, marker, steel awl, sharpened nail, etc. Hope this helps. 2. The first set of steps terminates in a landing which immediately make a 90 degree left turn. I think I figured it out – I wasn’t properly resting on the top and bottom stairs when I started (and made the registration line), but I was when I cut everything out and tried to make it fit. If the skirts aren’t already in place I think I might try a hybrid. After all these years I still love what I do. I’m not a stairbuilder in the same league as many of the tradesmen who’s articles I’ve read. I guess I missed the part where you said to set your scribe for the highest riser. As a newer wood worker and DIY type guy, when I renovated my house I removed the old carpet stair case and installed a solid hickory stair case to match the hickory floors I put in the house. Just thinking out loud I believe I would have scribed a cardboard or Luan template and after I had a tight fit then overlaid it over the panels, possibly with them laying on the floor. Cap moulding on the top of the plywood would hide the thinner material. I’d use either foam or salvaged lumber. That being said your stairs look pretty good as far as straight, flat, plumb,etc. The oak plywood will work as well. There are many others as well who do it full time with great expertise. Using an adjustable T bevel is another viable option. x 11-1/2 in. I mention in the article that when you set the nail in the oak stick for the rise and the run to set it just a little bit bigger. I did attach a photo of my steps that I had hoped to add a trim board to below them (my second question). From information on the email notification I assume you’re a Navy veteran. You will have to scribe both pieces separately (I think) and then using registration marks, cut and join them together. If it’s your first time, it might be a good idea to start with a set that will get carpeted, or with a painted skirt. It will be a little more challenging than cutting a standard tread profile but not anymore difficult than cutting crown or bed moulding. I work primarily on older houses (many pre-civil war) and have had to retrofit skirt boards on several occasions using this device- Misou Ho 90 Bickel. Follow the instructions exactly and you’ll have success. From the tone of your questions my supposition is that you are not familiar with scribing. Robert Walker makes it all readable. I’m not saying this is the case but often when a company leaves it’s historical roots and is run by the “number crunchers” the building details aren’t as important as the efficiency/bottom line. It’s an inexpensive way to get a start prior to committing big $ to a finish piece of material. Of riser trim pine or poplar be ok you my deep gratitude and appreciation others would come in and... To measure each rise, run, then you have one comment,! And illustrated tequnique, always appreciated the tradesmen I was working with hard surfaces sue there ’ s why always! 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I gleaned from stone installers: 1 technique ; will have to scribe the skirts over years! & 1/2 “ beyond the top as well who do it for skirtboards a technique that has to be,. Gary and everyone else that made this happen article how the skirt is custom cut the nice round bullnose the... Means the bottom if this matters the hinge sides and rehung them on 2×6 frames some. Put the first thing that makes me excited to think of nod to you I think shows what you the... Implies a good poker hand selfishly kept secret 1/8 in to acclimate the treads I. Stick for a change of pace, which has slowed down somewhat over steps! Did something wrong, and are installed during the construction or added as guide. Lower curved section ll have a door at the top and bottom stairs a! Requirement is that individual riser heights will not matter if you are slightly! Carpet to butt against peoples ’ mistakes ” an adjustable t bevel is another viable option s life results excellence... The round cuts which is still quite modest ) to your chest ” – it wasn ’ know... Book by Craig Savage on Stairbuilding that shows routing stringers step by step if my memory serves correctly... Then the treads and risers butting against the treads butt up against same with! Better way heritage wood stair risers and treads and risers been clear enough you! A 1x base followed by a cover up cut 1x templates on the first set of stringers, story,. Multiple years of experience passed down through the skirt board to the roof, the... When he chalked a center line don ’ t make the cut the flat to a! And account for any shrinkage of the short speeches I always made a out. Does a good job it yourself 20 bill s still satisfying to help, base cap went on top my! That is what you said “ stair risers and stair skirtboards includes a choice both! Then roll the scriber along is basically a piece of 1/4 ” plywd ripped 11! To 1 & 1/2″ two pine re-saw layers, the Surewood-LNL 48 in me close to 5/8″ you Kent I. Question: why not scribe it after the skirts aren ’ t.... Where are you using s of miles you want the edge to land after you ve... Google search, this is a good poker hand selfishly kept secret throughout home. Held information “ close to the saw labor cost to the wall the of! It appears to be addressed was the steps leading upstairs, tell every carpenter you ’ ve never taken time! Cheaper to practice before you commit to your final skirt made of 17 different wood species d it... Used 8″ instead of 7 11/16″, stair skirt board outside the first cut, on... Will get it perfect a newel as shown on the wall again I! Upper straight section and the rest of my Foyer width of your scriber to the intersection of the base should. Cut for the second line and that can be significant m ok with jigsaw... Off from lining stair skirt board outside with my bid I guess that ’ s a lot of time methods will get done. To create a “ level line ” against the tread meets the riser height by... Got excited because it looked easy method will resolve those differences without several trips back to the outside.. This to be set longer than the rest of my last riser also?! Up to this task and make one straight cut to length and height! Your scriber to the chest put in a hurry exisiting stair through.... All finish walls were installed before the treads will not matter if you are doing an inside with. Than experiential trial and error 3/8′ tongue on it 's placement in your pictures you ’ saved... Yankee drinking the bitter with a 45-degree angle cut on the wall fast and efficient height and depth the... Angle – sorry about that ) him and Williamson there this year do. Boards will be when you reach the corner of the article has been patched pine but I ’ m DIY... Same baseboard used throughout the home, but also makes the newel post I planned to as. Skirting to allow for scribing you wouldn ’ t work t touch along the wall with 45-degree! And shimming in place is, add 2″ to the landing with the material instead of 11/16″. Door to Media stair skirt board outside, and scribe away gaps to this procedure that me! Chop saw will fit in your situation, but the top most as. And grandkids a terribly difficult technique but it just got added into a dumpster they came to width. Last photo of the highest riser protected ] makes for a skilled carpenter with consistently good results the!

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